Crown Victoria Idler Arms
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Part Number	From	To	Comments	Suggested Retail
Napa NCP 268-3608	1979	2002	Aftermarket Napa Chassis Parts Manufactured by Dana Corporation	$104.22
Moog K8283	1979	2002	Aftermarket Moog	$114.49
Spicer 450-1042	1979	2002	Aftermarket Spicer	$104.05
TRW 18833	1979	2002	Aftermarket TRW	$106.72
Ford 1W1Z-3355-AA	1979	2002	Ford Dealer Service Parts Supercedes E9AZ-3355-A Rubber bushing at frame side	$33.03

Notes:

• The OE Ford design idler arm utilizes a rubber bushing at the frame rather than a greaseable ball and socket style joint.
• Some police departments replaced the oe design idler arms on all of their crownvics prior to placing them into service. This yielded improved toe control on the passenger side and to some extent on the drivers side too. And yes, the vehicles were "new" and had "0 miles" on the odometer when the idler arms were replaced
• Some aftermarket idler arms also utilize a greasable ball and socket style joint where the idler arm meets the center link. But there is some debate about whether it is desirable to have the ball/socket style joint or a rubber one at the drag link junction.
• Some aftermarket idler arms include a new washer and castle nut. Some will require you to reuse the existing top washer and castle nut.
• The cotterpin which passes through the castellated nut and centerlink should never be reused. If you remove it, then install a new cotterpin.
  

Notes for those vehicles operated in a humid enviroment:

• The factory service manual implies that the idler arm will simply slide off the centerlink stud. But this is not usually the case on vehicles driven in is this area of the country.
  
• The stud on the centerlink that secures the idler arm to the centerlink corrodes outwards and the metal sleeve on the idler arm bushing corrodes inwards. If the vehicle has lived in a humid enviroment, then it is likely that the idler arm will refuse to seperate from the drag link. And use of pullers is difficult due to limited clearance between the top of the idler arm and the bottom of the air conditioner compressor.
  
• One approach to this problem is to remove the entire drag link with the tierods, idler arm, and pitman arm still attached. And then use a pitman or tie rod puller to press the arm from the stud. If the idler arm bushing sleeve remains stuck to the centerlink stud after the rubber portion has been removed, a screw driver or air chisel can be used on the remains.
• Another approach is to use a low temperature propane torch to soften the rubber bushing material between the bushing sleeve and the idler arm casting. The rubber will smoke and emit toxic fumes, but it will also allow the arm to seperate from the inner bushing sleeve if a "pickle fork" is hammered between the arm and the drag link. Use of this method is discouraged for various reasons including: heat adversly affect the strength and flexibility characteristics of suspension parts, and the possibility of bodily injury from hot molten material.
  

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